For Relaxing Times, make it a Suntory Time. When I first watched Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation, I wasn’t familiar with japanese whisky, but I thought the reference was funny. The film explored the feeling of estrangement, alienation and isolation between people. All those nunances in the human relationships highlighted by the feeling of cultural distance from Japan.
And nothing better to enhance this estrangement than whisky. In 2003, Japanese whisky was far from the craze it is today. And a fictional decadent American actor starring in a commercial for a product that seemed as disconnected from that country as he himself was a brilliant analogy. What I didn’t know, however, is that Japanese whisky was exceptional.
One of the clearest examples is the award-winning Suntory Hibiki 21 Year Old – the older expression of the whisky that appears in the film. Hibiki 21 years is a blended whisky which core is the Yamazaki single malt, and that uses whiskies from the Hakushu distilleries – single malt – and Chita – grain whisky. These whiskies are matured in American, European and Japanese oak barrels – the famous Mizunara.
The blend was launched in 1994, five years after the debut of the Hibiki line, with its 17 years. The family grew, with the 30 years, in 1997, and the 12 years, in 2009. However, a few years later, practically the entire family was discontinued. And the reason could not be more surprising. Due to the success of Japanese whiskies around the world, Suntory found itself with a short supply of stock to maintain the quality of its blends. So, instead of changing the formula, it made the courageous decision to withdraw them from the market until its stock was replenished.
In 2015, Hibiki Japanese Harmony was launched, which gradually allowed Hibiki 21 and 30 to be reintroduced. Two expressions, however, never returned to the shelves: Hibiki 12 and 17 years. This makes Hibiki 21 the oldes blend in the current portfolio – not in terms of maturation, but longevity.
Suntory Hibiki 21 has received several international awards, such as Best Blended Whisky in the World in 2019, 2017, 2016, 2013, 2011 and 2010 by the World Whisky Awards, and a gold medal at the 2012 International Spirits Challenge. In fact, it was one of the causes of the Japanese whisky craze and the consequent shortage of more mature stocks.
Sensorially, Hibiki 21 has fruity notes, ginger, black pepper and chocolate. There is something like a dried plum, or a plum syrup, in the background, which ties the proverbial ends of the blend together and makes it a concise product. The finish is a bit dry and fruity. It is an incredibly well-balanced and complex blend, capable of easily surpassing renowned single malts.
And this marvel has just arrived in Brazil. Less than 70 bottles landed here. Which seems like a small amount, but it is a surprising number. The whisky is highly sought after worldwide, and its production is still quite limited. The price is high. Seven thousand reais. But it is consistent with the price charged around the world. In Japan, if you are lucky, you can buy one for five thousand.
Hibiki 21 is a historic blend. It was one of the main whiskies responsible – along with its cousin Yamazaki Sherry Cask – for proving that whiskies produced with Scottish techniques but outside of Scotland could be as good as those. But that doesn’t matter. What matters is that it is an absolutely incredible whisky even today. No alienation or estrangement – just a masterfully crafted blend.
SUNTORY HIBIKI 21 YEARS OLD
- Type: Blended Whisky with a defined age – 21 years
- Brand: Suntory
- Region: N/A
- ABV: 43%
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Fruity and floral, with vanilla and plum.
- Taste: Honey, candied plum, ginger, black pepper, chocolate. Long, sweet finish, with vanilla, caramel and plum.