The Bottled Dog

Man’s Best Friend in Liquid State

Aultmore 21 – Optimism

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When I was five years old, I remember a visit I made to the pediatrician. He measured my foot, then the circumference of my head. With the smile of a child who has just discovered a confidence, he said resolutely that I would be six feet tall and strong as a pit bull. And then, thirty years later, I remembered this story, from the top of my disproportionate head, fixed on a body that is more like a dachshund, four feet off the ground.

But I wasn’t the only one to be lulled into prophecies of gigantism by pediatricians. It’s kind of a rule – you’ll always stay six feet tall, play basketball with the agility of a marmoset and have the bone mass of a brachiosaurus. But decades later, you end up puny, with mediocre stature, feet that look like two rackets, and bones pushing the skin in the wrong places. Pediatricians are naturally optimistic.

me on the beach, according to my pediatrician


I think it’s a matter of human nature’s expectation. You expect the future to be extraordinary. It’s like, for example, when I open a whisky that I’ve never had in my life – Aultmore 21 years old, for example, which has just officially arrived in Brazil. The unopened bottle promises an incredible, poignant, distinct experience. Totally out of the curve. Even more so for very exclusive and mature whiskies. But, unfortunately, this expectation is not always met.

I’ll start by contextualizing. While Aultmore’s story is a survival story – it lived on through the Pattinson crisis, the Volstead Act, the Great Depression and the two world wars – it never really shone on its own, as did some of its celebrated neighbors. Instead. His role has always been backstage – Aultmore is an important ingredient for blended scotches, especially the Dewar’s range.

Aultmore is located in the Moray Mountains, north of Keith, next to a road called Buckie Road – locally, they ask for a “a wee dram of the Buckie Road”. It is difficult to access and sparsely populated. Next to the distillery is an area known as the Foggie Moss, which at the time of Aultmore’s founding was quite rich in peat. These conditions, together with the ease of obtaining water, made the Aultmore region quite famous among illicit distillers in the mid-nineteenth century.

Aultmore’s supporting role changed when Bacardi, its owner, decided to launch in 2014 a series of bottlings of its distilleries – the well-known and modestly named “The Last Great Malts of Scotland” – highlighting Aberfeldy and the delicious Royal Brackla. Among them was also the Aultmore 21 years. Originally designed for the duty-free market, this expression is now also sold in selected domestic markets around the world – I suspect, due to COVID. Including Brazil.

Aultmore 21 years is a premium single malt, with a profile that refers to a blended luxury whisky. It’s quite complex – there’s honey, caramel, vanilla, creme brulee and a vegetable, herbaceous note. But it’s also a delicate and balanced whisky. The time – the ages in the cask – here brought softness, not intensity. There are no sharp edges or any aggressiveness. And that’s where the maturation, which happens in refill hogsheads, becomes apparent.

Aultmore


The smoothness of maturation also finds balance in its spirit, which has a medium body. Aultmore stills are low, which prevents reflux. However, the distillation is slow and encourages reflux, making the drink more aromatic and less oily. The distillate does not undergo cold filtration, and there is no added caramel coloring – the color is totally natural.

With that description, the 21 year old Aultmore sounds like an extraordinary liquid. And, as a matter of fact, he really is. But maybe it takes some experience to understand its greatness. It is a single malt with more than two decades of maturation, but whose sensory profile is close to an ultra-luxury blended scotch whisey. A delicate and complex whisky, balanced, without peat and herbal.

And maybe I was the one who was wrong in the expectation, and the problem is there, not in the liquid. Because in Brazil, a bottle of Aultmore 21 years costs a little more than a thousand reais. It’s a great price for a 21 year old single malt (that’s what it is!). However, it is perhaps an adequate price at the most considering a whisky which flavour profile is close to an ultra-luxury blend. Whose objective, by the way, is exactly the same – to bring complexity and smooth.

So my recommendation here will be twofold. Whether you’re passionate about smooth and delicate whiskies, or ultra-luxury blended scotch whiskies that combine complexity and smoothness, like the 25-year-old Dewar’s, the Aultmore 21 will be a perfect single malt for your taste buds. But, align your expectations – except, of course, if you’re a pediatrician.

AULTMORE 21

Type: Single malt

Distillery: Aultmore

Region: Speyside

ABV: 46%

TASTING NOTES

Aroma: Floral, citrus, herbs (as always, the legal ones…).

Taste: Herbaceous. grassy, slightly citrus. Honey, caramel, creme brulee. Medium and sweet finish.

*the bottle of the whisky subject of this tasting was provided by third parties involved in its production. This Dog, however, maintained complete editorial freedom over the content of the post.

Macallan Triple Cask 15 – Names

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I once read an article about how automakers choose the names of their cars. It’s very interesting. and also complicated. What seems natural is actually a complex creative process. First, companies consult their marketing departments to determine words that reflect the vehicle’s profile. Literally hundreds of ideas are conceived.

Then, specialists from different areas choose the names based on the most different criteria. For example, it cannot be a registered trademark of another company. It can’t be slang, it can’t be a curse word in another language and it has to sound good. This all means that behind every Ford Pinto (the vulgar for “penis”), Kia Besta (even more vulgar for “stupid”), Mazda Laputa (vulgar for “prostitute”), Lancia Marica (ah, forget about explaining this one…) and Fiat Punto there is a team of dozens of people who failed miserably.

Recently, one of the most famous single malt brands in the world took the same risk. The Macallan, when launching its Quest collection. The old 1824 line was replaced by one of products with, shall we say, more creative names – Quest, Lumina, Terra and Enigma. And that’s okay, because the names sound good and, in a way, convey the sense of sophistication that the brand intends to. However – and in my simple opinion – there is a small problem. As in the case of Fiat Linea, Hyundai Azera and Honda Accord, the names mean nothing. After all, is light less or more sophisticated than earth and enigma?

Well…


Luckily, The Macallan compensated by renaming some of their lines with very concrete names. Like, for example, Fine Oak – which was renamed Triple Cask. And the other lines with minimal maturation stamped on the label, too. Sherry Oak, Double Cask and Triple Cask, accompanied by the minimum age declaration. Everything (almost) that the consumer wants to know is already stated there, in the name – without running the risk of idiomatic puns or too much abstraction. As is the case of Macallan Triple Cask 15 years, subject of this test.

According to The Macallan “Matured in a unique and complex combination of casks, the Macallan Triple Cask Matured range offers an extraordinarily smooth and delicate yet complex character, extracted from oak casks seasoned with European and American sherry and former American oak casks . -bourbon. Formerly known as The Macallan Fine Oak, the line offers the same whisky with a new name and a new bottle; reflecting the quality of our whiskies and revealing the skills and skill of the Macallan Masters.”

At this point, you might have already intuited a thing or two about the Macallan Triple Cask 15 years ago. The first is that, well, the age of the youngest malt in your mix is ​​15 years. And the second is that whisky uses three different types of casks. Here, in this case, American and European oak casks that previously contained sherry wine, and American oak casks that previously matured bourbon whisky. Very objective – no fancy nicknames.

The Triple Cask range – formerly dubbed Fine Oak – was launched in 2004 and brought something new to The Macallan whiskies. The use of ex-bourbon American oak casks. Is that traditionally the distillery used predominantly ex-sherry casks. However, the increase in production, together with the cost and the search for new consumers – who often want more delicate whiskies – made The Macallan diversify its range.

Three ranges


And even though the name is crystal clear, the liquid is of rare sophistication. Macallan Triple Cask 15 Years Old is a single malt with an extremely balanced aroma, with notes of caramel, vanilla, honey, creme brulee, black pepper and a touch of dried fruit. Everything is there exactly where it should be – none of the scents trump the other. The palate, in turn, accompanies the aroma, and brings the characteristic oiliness so known from The Macallan.

The texture of The Macallan Triple Cask 15 years is mainly due to The Macallan stills. They are the lowest in all of Scotland. Its lyne arms face downward to maximize condensation and reduce reflux. All of this makes for a very oily distillate. To counteract a hypothetical aggressiveness, The Macallan’s heart cut is very restrited: Only sixteen percent of the distillate – produced in the middle of the distillation process in the still – turns into single malt.

Within The Macallan’s Triple Cask lineup, the 15 year old is perhaps this Bottled Dog’s favorite – especially given the aforementioned balance of casks and new-make. And also Dave Broom’s favourite! According to the renowned journalist “it takes time to open, but it’s worth the wait. It’s the complete package, and arguably the best. Grade 9 and 1/4 of 10.”

If you are looking for a sophisticated whisky, with a balanced aroma and at the same time personality, the Macallan 15 Triple Cask is your choice. No names full of enigmatic meanings. Just an extremely well made and polished single malt, capable of pleasing both the hardcore enthusiast and the most casual drinker.

MACALLAN TRIPLE CASK 15 YEARS


Type: Single Malt with declared age (15 years)

Distillery: Macallan

Region: Speyside

ABV: 43%

TASTING NOTES

Aroma: caramel, vanilla, raisins, spices.

Flavor: Caramel, vanilla, creme brulee. Black pepper and dried fruit finish.

Interview with Chris Morris – Woodford Reserve Master Distiller

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Tom Freston once said that innovation is taking two things that already exist and putting them together in a new way. But what Freston refrained from saying is that sometimes the story doesn’t work out very well. Like for example a certain flying car, the Ave Mizar. The Mizar was proof that the sum of two bad things always results in something much worse.

On the other hand, the result of bringing together two good things – by a creative mind, combining technique and knowledge – usually becomes greater than the sum of its parts. This is the case, for example, of the hamburger. And, in the bourbon whiskey industry, a range of Woodford Reserve products. The mind behind the hugely renowned brand is Chris Morris.

Chris Morris is not just any master distiller. He is the creator of amazing products like the Woodford Reserve Double Oaked and the Woodford Rye. He is also responsible for the Master’s Collection – a series of limited editions from Woodford Reserve that introduce innovations to the world of American whiskey, such as a single malt aged in virgin barrels, a bourbon finished in red wine barrels and a bourbon with smoked barley in its mashbill.

Sonoma


Chris began his career in 1976 at Brown-Forman, the multinational that owns Woodford Reserve. In 1997, he became a student of Lincoln Henderson, Woodford Reserve’s first Master Distiller. In 2003, he became the second – and this is the position he occupies to this day.

Interviewing Morris isn’t exactly easy. The temptation is to ask about all the innovations already produced, and about plans for the future. Even more in an exclusive chat. After all, Woodford Reserve is that kind of brand that sets trends – that makes innovation tangible – and, well, palatable. You can check the result of the interview below.

You are one of the most respected master distillers in the Bourbon industry. How does one become a master distiller? How did you begin?

Chris Morris: Serving as master distiller at Woodford Reserve is a great honor and a great responsibility. My journey began in 1976, when I started my career in our analytical and sensory laboratory at the distillery. From there, I worked in the bottling part, our barrel cooperage, distillery, in the aging and barrel storage warehouses, as well as in sales and marketing.

In other words, I’ve had a wide range of experiences in our industry. During this journey, I was also privileged to work a significant amount of time at scotch, irish whiskey and tequila distilleries. My last role before being named master distiller was “Master Distiller in Training”. This allowed me the opportunity to devote 100% of my time preparing for my current role. It took 28 years of preparation and experience, two postgraduate degrees, and participation in several seminars before my promotion to master distiller in March 2003.

Woodford Reserve is part of Brown-Forman, which also owns Jack Daniel’s. However, Woodford is seen as a “craft” distillery. How do you maintain the “handcrafted” characteristic even though you are part of such a large company?

Chris Morris: Woodford Reserve is able to remain “craft” within a large global company, Brown-Forman, due to the company’s structure. At Brown-Forman, each brand and its distillery operate as an independent business within the larger business. Woodford has its own brand management team, production team and specific local sales and marketing teams around the world. The Global Brand Director and I are partners charged with maintaining the brand’s quality and business performance. This allows us to follow our vocation, which focuses on presenting the flavor of the product.

As a member of a multinational company (Brown-Forman), Woodford Reserve benefits from its (Brown) global distribution network. This allows us to show Woodford to a wider range of consumers around the world. It also helps us make accurate assessments of the volume of market demand by country. This is needed by us as we build our long-term distillation plans and barrel inventory.

What makes Woodford Reserve so special, in your opinion? In other words, how would you convince someone to drink Woodford over another bourbon?

Chris Morris: Woodford Reserve is special and stands out from other great Kentucky bourbons for a number of reasons. Key to its success is our Five Sources of Whiskey Flavor concept and the resulting balance of the Five Areas of Whiskey Flavor. Our distillery is the first in the United States to use triple distillation in copper stills (made in Scotland), ferment twice as long as the others, use the Woodford Reserve yeast strain and mature in custom barrels from our own cooperage . These unique production characteristics allow Woodford Reserve to have a complex balance of sweet aromatic notes, fruits and florals, spices, wood and grains.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA


I even apologize in advance for the statement – ​​but I love mixing Woodford Reserve. I think it’s a great base for cocktails. What do you think of cocktails with Woodford?

Chris Morris: I’m a big fan of using Woodford Reserve at cocktail parties. The best way to make a great cocktail is to use the best foundation in that cocktail. Beginning in 1999, when Woodford Reserve was named the first “Official Bourbon” of the Kentucky Derby, we became perfectionists in Mint Julep. Mint Julep has acquired a rather bad image over the years and was rarely served in bars and restaurants, for very long. Due to Woodford’s efforts, it is now possible to enjoy a Mint Julep in the United States and many other countries.

Woodford also established the Woodford Reserve Manhattan competition 12 years ago. This has become one of the most prestigious whiskey cocktail competitions in the world. Recently, Woodford was named the “Old Fashioned Week ” official bourbon, on a global platform. Thus, it is evident that Woodford Reserve played an important role in the return of “Classic Cocktails” to popularity.

Woodford Reserve has a Single Malt, right? Is it like a Scottish single malt or are there differences in production and palate?

Chris Morris: Woodford Reserve launched Kentucky’s first Single Malt Whiskey (Kentucky Single Malt) in 2009 through our Masters Collection product line. It was offered in two expressions – one aged in barrels previously used to mature another whiskey, like many Scottish single malts and the other aged in new barrels. For me, virgin barrel-aged malt was the more complex of the two.

Since then, the new micro-distillery movement in the US has championed Single Malts. I didn’t want us to look like a follower rather than the pioneers that we are, so we created Kentucky’s first and only single malt. The use of corn and rye in the recipe, as well as a charred virgin barrel, resulted in a flavor profile that I consider unique in the whiskey universe.

I could not agree more! Now, about finishing. Glenmorangie and Balvenie pioneered the technique of “finishing” (transferring a whiskey to a different type of barrel to add sensory complexity). Woodford Reserve is a pioneer in this technique in the United States – with chardonnay cask. How did you come up with this idea? AND…. is still bourbon?

My interest in finishing (barrels, finishing) started with my experience in the Single Malt Scotch industry. I noticed that the use of fortified wine barrels (port, sherry, wood etc.) was quite common. Why was no one using varietal wine barrels, I wondered? This led me to purchase barrels of chardonnay, pinot, cabernet, zinfandel and others to test the finish.

After much trial and error, we put our learning to the test with the release of the Chardonnay Finish from the Masters Collection in 2007 and despite the storm it caused among bourbon aficionados, it was a huge success. Since then, we’ve also pioneered the Pinot Noir finish and, with our established finishing credentials, we’ve moved on to the less controversial fortified wine finishes.

Suntory Hibiki Japanese Harmony – Devotion

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“I will keep trying to climb until I reach the top, even though no one knows where the top is.” The phrase is from the nonagenarian Jiro Ono, protagonist of a documentary I recently watched on Amazon: Jiro Dreams of Sushi. Jiro is the owner and chef of a restaurant that serves only sushi, called Sukiyasbashi Jiro. The space, with only ten seats, kept from 2007 to 2019 a three star rating by the Michelin Guide – the maximum award. In 2019 Sukiyasbashi Jiro lost its stars. But not by demerit. But because it became so famous that it does not accept reservations to the general public anymore.

The documentary, released in 2012, shows the chef’s crystalline devotion for his occupation. Jiro obsesses about the placement of the mats on his counter and points out where each customer should sit. Jiro massages each octopus for at least forty-five minutes, to make it more juicy. Jiro knows the exact story of each piece consumed in his establishment, and he watches his diners diligently – a longer blink of an eye may be a sign that something has changed. Jiro was born to make sushi. His success is almost a natural extension of him.

What’s up, Barack, is the fish-y tast-ey?

It is something that, in a way, could also be said of Suntory, Japan’s largest whisky producer. Its first label was launched in 1929. Today, its success is undeniable. The brand’s products are so desired that the more mature expressions even had to be discontinued. It could – the attention to detail, from the liquid to the packaging, is so meticulous that it even looks like that of an award-winning sushiman.

And after a long hiatus, two Suntory labels finally arrived in Brazil, to complete the portfolio with Roku Gin, Haku Vodka and The Chita. They are the single malt Yamazaki Distiller’s Reserve – part of a future tasting of this Dog – and the Hibiki Japanese Harmony, blended whisky and the object of this article.

According to Suntory, Hibiki Japanese Harmony is considered the cornerstone of the Hibiki blending line, and carries the same base malts and grain whisky as the most mature expressions, Hibiki 17 and 21 years old. There are three. Yamazaki, responsible for a good part of the sweet and candied fruit notes of the blend; Hakushu, which brings a slight impression of smoke and iodine and The Chita, which brings sweetness and balance to the mix – “daishi” as the company itself defines.

The maturation takes part in five different types of barrels, from three different species of oak. The ex-bourbon American serves as a base – with sweetness and vanilla. The European oak previously used for sherry wine brings seasoning, as well as the rare Japanese oak, known as mizunara.

Hibiki Japanese Harmony shows how complex the creation of a blended whisky is, and the level of knowledge of its master blender, Shinji Fukuyo. Its components must be combined in order to bring harmony, drinkability, but, at the same time, personality. To paraphrase Jiro Ono “there is a balance between fish and rice. If it is not in perfect harmony, it will not be good ”. Attention should be paid to balance, in order to avoid that certain whisky does not stand out, but also to let part of the character of each one be noticed. This is actually the biggest challenge for every blender in the world.

Shinji Fukuyo, dreaming of sushi

But in the case of the Japanese, there is yet another setback. The raw material is incredibly scarce, because there is a huge demand for Japanese malts in the world. And the blend must have standardization, consistency – Hibikis Japanese Harmonies must always have the same sensory profile. Achieving this with limited resources is not a trivial job

There is an interesting symbology behind the bottle, too. The name Hibiki means “resonance” or “harmony”. It is as if Japanese Harmony were doubly harmonic. The bottle has twenty-four distinct faces, which symbolize twenty-four seasons of the traditional Japanese calendar.

Sensorially, Hibiki Japanese Harmony is a very balanced, fruity and floral whisky. There are citrus notes, as well as vanilla, cinnamon, black pepper and coconut. The flavor intensity is higher than the average of blended whiskies, but there is almost no aggressiveness. The texture is somewhat reminiscent of its counterpart, Haku Vodka. It is curious how the Hibiki Japanese Harmony is essentially a luxury blend, but it also sensorially appeals to the enthusiast because of its intensity.

In Brazil, a bottle of Hibiki Japanese Harmony costs approximately 700 reais. It is not cheap – but it is a price consistent with other luxury blends. Some of them, also without an age stated on the label.

Hibiki Japanese Harmony is, in a way, the most perfect summary of the Japanese technique and dedication in producing whiskies. Not even his magnificent single malts – with my dear Hakushu – are a better testament to his technique. Look, my dear Jiro, I’m not sure where the top is either – but Hibiki is close to him.

SUNTORY HIBIKI JAPANESE HARMONY


Type: No age statement blended whisky

Brand: Suntory

Region: N / A

ABV: 43%

Tasting Notes:

Aroma: citrus, vanilla. Cinnamon and coconut in the background.

Flavor: Honey, candied fruit, floral, vanilla. Persistent finish, with coconut, cinnamon and a little black pepper.

Where to find: Caledonia Whiskey & Co., in São Paulo, and other selected retailers.

Suntory Haku Vodka – On Distinct Experiences

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A couple of years ago, I went with my father to a sophisticated Chinese restaurant and ordered an improbable dish. Shark fin soup. We went there just for that, in the most innocent curiosity. Shark fin soup is a typical Chinese dish, usually served only on very special occasions. Weddings, for example. It was invented in the Song dynasty, and is still seen today by much of the population of China as a symbol of prestige two pounds of fin can cost well over four hundred reais.

But the most curious thing, however, is not the stellar price of the delicacy. But something that, before the experiment, we didn’t know: shark fin has no taste at all. The texture is curious, kind of gelatinous and slippery. But the taste is totally neutral. It is the other ingredients of the dish – chicken broth, seafood and spices – that add flavor to it.

It does not look very good either.

And there was nothing wrong with us. It’s not that our tastebuds were faulty or something. Because there is jurisprudence on this. International chef Gordon Ramsay once made a quote about such a fin “It is really bizarre. Because it has no taste at all. It’s like glass noodles. The soup is delicious. But there could be anything there – chicken, duck, corn “. I have to agree, albeit a little disappointed about the taste of the dish. In a world where everything is ephemeral and we are occupied with empty experiences, eating shark fin broth can be doubly insignificant.

A distillate that has maintained a similar reputation for a long time is vodka. Dave Wondrich once said that “Vodka is the boneless, skinless chicken breast from the cocktail shop – everything has to do with the seasoning“. However, there are vodkas that challenge this concept. Some have very particular flavors, albeit delicate. This is the case, for example, of Haku Vodka, which has just landed in Brazil officially through Beam-Suntory.

The base of Haku Vodka is rice, which is fermented and distilled in stills, creating a kind of low-grain wine. Afterwards, this product is redistilled, both in stills and in distillation columns. Finally, the distillate is collected and filtered on bamboo charcoal, removing the heavier congeners, and making Haku even more delicate. It is a very meticulous process.

Haku Vodka’s production takes place under the same roof as Roku Gin. It is a distillery located in Kaigandori, Osaka, belonging to Suntory – very close to Yamazaki, where the wonderful homonymous sigle malt is produced. The space is also known as the “Suntory Liquor Atelier“

The atelier

The name “Haku” has an interesting ambiguity. The word can mean either “white” – in reference to rice – or “bright”, a tribute to the ability to create the spirit. In fact, Suntory’s vodka production is not a current phenomenon. The company has been producing the distillate since 1956.

Sensorially, Haku Vodka is very delicate, with extremely well integrated alcohol. It is smoothly sweet, without any pepper. But in the opinion of this Dog – who may be delirious – the interesting thing is its texture. It is not as volatile as it appears. There is a weight, an oiliness, that curiously complements its pepperless smoothness – almost like the shark fin soup!

If you are looking for a vodka to work as a star in your cocktails, like in a Vesper Martini, or even something that will look strangely delicious if drunk pure, Haku Vodka is an excellent choice. Not all experiences need to have no meaning.

SUNTORY HAKU VODKA


Type: Vodka
Brand: Suntory
Country / Region: Japan – N / A
ABV: 40%
Age: N / A

Tasting notes

Aroma: delicate, sugar, grains.
Flavor: sweet and delicate. There is almost no trace of spices. Relatively oily for a vodka.

Caledonian 33YO – Drops

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If you like unusual whiskies, you may be interested in this small – but remarkable – bottle. The 33-year-old Caledonian The Boutique-y Whisky Company. There are a number of reasons that make it a certain unicorn in the world of Scotch Whisky.

The first is its sheer type. It is a single grain scotch whisky. Which, in itself, corresponds to an almost insignificant fraction of scotch whiskies. Single grains are produced in a single distillery, using whichever grains – and a small fraction of malted barley. They are usually distilled in Coffey Stills (a kind of column still). Although production is large, most grain whiskies are produced to integrate blends. They are only seldomnly bottled alone.

Another – and the main – reason is that the distillery – Caledonian – no longer exists. The Caledonian had long been the largest distillery in all of Scotland. However, due to a series of mergers and acquisitions, as well as an oversupply of grain whiskies on the market, the distillery closed its doors in 1988. Its interior was renovated and transformed into a housing complex. Its chimney, however – one of Scotland’s tallest Victorian towers – remains intact, and is considered a historic monument.

Caledonian Distillery

In fact, the label of this edition – bottled by the independent Boutique-y whiskies Company – makes an hommage to that chimney. According to the brand “Around the corner from Haymarket station in Edinburgh, you will find Distillery Lane and, next to some apartments, a huge chimney! That’s all that’s left of the Caledonian distillery now. Well, almost… a little bit of delicious grain whisky also survived! Climb to the top of the chimney and admire the view of the city to the Firth of Forth. But how dangerous (and naughty) that would be, we designed it for you. Be welcome.”

Since its silence, several independent bottlers have purchased barrels from Caledonian and have launched their own. As, for example, the object of this tasting: an edition of the Boutique-y Whisky Company, which yielded 144 bottles of 33-year-old Caledonian. The distillery’s only official launch, however, was in 2015. A monumental forty-year-old grain whisky, dubbed “The Cally”, and part of Diageo’s annual Special Releases for that year.


Sensorially, the Boutique-y Whisky Company 29-year-old Caledonian is rathes smooth and has a great influence of wood. There are notes of caramel, vanilla and coconut. In fact, a lot of coconut. It is a single grain that shows that grain whiskies can be exceptional and as complex as a good malt whisky. And a bonus – in addition to the wonderful whisky – there is a beautiful bottle. And a name we love (if you know what we mean), I don’t know why.

CALEDONIAN 33 YEARS OLD THE BOUTIQUE-Y WHISKY COMPANY


Type: Single grain scotch whiskey – 33 years

Distillery: Caledonian

Region: Lowlands

ABV: 50.3%

Test results:

Aroma: vanilla, coconut, yellow fruits.

Flavor: very light and fruity, with coconut, salted caramel and vanilla. Medium finish, sweet and fruity.

Murray McDavid – Clachan

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A thousand and one uses. Tasteful energy. The real mayonnaise. Everyone uses or uses and abuses. All of the above phrases are famous brand slogans in Brazil. It is impossible not to think about Pão de Açúcar when someone says “happy people place”, even though I’ve felt miserable visiting the supermarket in more than one occasion.

Almost all slogans carry a common message. They are positive and cheerful, and convey values ​​such as authenticity or trust. Almost all, because there are a few really weird ones out there. For example, that of the independent bottler Murray McDavid. Their slogan, in Gaelic, is clachan a choin.

Before I tell you what clachan a choin means, let me talk a little bit about Murray McDavid. Its headquarters are currently the Coleburn distillery in the Scottish region of Speyside. It is one of Scotland’s most prolific independent bottlers. In case you don’t know, independent bottlers are companies that visit and choose barrels from different distilleries – which do not belong to it – and produce their own line of whiskies. Sometimes very limited editions. Others, not so much.

I can only admire a brand that has a dog as a logo.


The success of an independent bottler lies largely in its creativity. In its capacity to produce improbable editions, which maintains the character of a certain distillery, but which are sufficiently distinct from those produced by it. An independent bottler must produce something new, but with tools that are already there and were not created by it. It must think differently. Be rebellious and defiant. And there it is.

Clachan a Choin means “canine scrotum”. Or, in a translation perhaps coarse, but more faithful, “the dog’s bollocks”. A phrase that, let’s face it, does not need many explanations to convey a sense of rebellion. That Murray McDavid represents very well. Whether with its more exclusive lines (which carry the Murray McDavid brand), or with its more accessible products, from ACEO Spirits.

I had the opportunity to taste some of these creations due to the visit of Murray McDavid’s ambassador to Brazil. Who, incredibly, is a Brazilian. João Pedro Medeiros. During the trip, the representative will perform tastings in Recife, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. In Rio, the event – in partnership with Whisky Rio – will take place on March 13, at Bota Restaurante. In São Paulo, the tasting will be at Caledonia Whisky & Co. – which, incidentally, belongs to us.

Among the whiskies tasted, I selected four that – within my weird logic – represent Murray McDavid’s spirit (pun intended) well. The first is a single grain scotch whisky produced by Girvan. By it’s nature, it would already be quite different – there are not many single grains out there. But this also has a very special maturation. It is finished in barrels that previously contained wood wine. Due to the thin body, the maturation is very evident. It is a light, pleasant, sweet and fruity whisky.

Coleburn Distillery


The second is Half and Half, a blended of undisclosed malts from Speyside and Lowlands. Maturation took place mainly in American oak barrels. However, after blending, the whisky is transferred to barrels of Spanish sherry wine for completion. Sensorially, it is a more conventional whisky – sweet and with a slight flavor of prune, coming from the finish.

The third is Mulben Moor, a single malt from a distillery – allegedly – not disclosed, but which we know is Auchroisk. Maturation took place in barrels of ex-American oak bourbon, and European oak of ex-Madeira wine. It is a curiously citrusy single malt, reminiscent of lemon peel. It is more intense than the previous ones. The finish is long, fruity and spicy.

The ultimate is Peatside, a blended peated malt. It is a limited edition, with only 848 bottles worldwide. Matured in American oak barrels, and then transferred to two port wine barrels, it is a very smoky whisky, with notes of fruit in syrup and black pepper. Alcohol content is 50%.

If you want to know more about Murray McDavid and the independent bottlers, follow the Bottled Dog in the coming weeks! We will cover the event in São Paulo and interview the ambassador. Here,the place of happy people – tasteful energetic people.

The Glenlivet Code – Preconceptions

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My dearest to me at the drugstore. Aren’t you going to buy the Q-tips? Of course I will, look here. But these are not Q-Tips. I looked puzzled. They are not Q-Tips, they are generic cotton swabs, are they as good as the originals? I exhaled of dissatisfaction. Look, these are sticks with cotton on the end, I think my ear is not very discriminatory regarding the brand of things that I put in it.

It may seem like a silly discussion, but it is not. Branding a product directly influences how we perceive it. Nielsen, a company that specializes in studying consumer behavior, recently made a very interesting discovery. Six out of approximately ten consumers prefer to buy known brands products simply because they inspire confidence. It makes sense – most of the time we humans seek safety. This security, represented by something that is already familiar to us. We already know what to expect.

But it’s not just brands. When we know something, we create a concept around it. A concept we use as a basis of comparison for other things of the same nature. Before we experiment something new, we access this concept library and create a, well, pre-conception about it. For example, when someone tells me that some whisky has been amtured in ex-sherry, I will automatically imagine something fruity and spicy. Which is not true sometimes. But I think it is, because my brain is conditioned to always look for the same result, after having experienced a plethora of former-sherry-matured whiskies that had that flavour profile.

Aren’t we all lab rats, after all?

Knowing this, Glenlivet – one of Scotland’s three largest distilleries – decided to do a rather unorthodox experiment. The Glenlivet Code, which has recently arrived in Brazil.

It is a single malt that has no packaging information about its age, neither the barrels used in the maturation process. The only information is the alcohol content of 48%. The idea is that the consumer is not led to feel a certain aroma or flavor because he knows the composition of the barrels used in the expression. In other words, it invites consumers to taste, reflect, and produce their own tasting notes, without prejudice or preconceptions.

In the words of Alan Winchester, Glenlivet Master Distiller “With the Glenlivet Code, we had the unique opportunity to create a whisky that had never been created before, using new barrels and techniques to push the boundaries of what people expect from The Glenlivet. This year’s limited edition is a maze of flavors that will test your senses, and we are excited to invite consumers around the world to accept the challenge of decoding their mysteries. ”

To make the experience more interactive, Glenlivet has launched a hotsite. There, the connoisseur is invited to crack the code for that single malt. Or, in other words, compare their tasting notes test scores with Alan Winchester’s, through a a multiple-choice test. In the end, the site gives you a percentage of how many answers you got “right“.

The Glenlivet Code was released in March 2018, and is the third expression of a series of mysterious Glenlivet Malts. The first was Alpha in 2013, followed by Cipher in 2016. The idea of ​​these editions is excellent. They allow the savvy consumer to ask himself what he likes about the taste of a whisky, and how old and what that drink is. And, as a result, also reflect on what makes a good whisky. After all, is age important? The composition of the barrels?

A few months after launch – and before Code had a chance to land in our country – Glenlivet unveiled its full tasting notes, as well as barrel composition. However, to avoid spoilers, I will not explain them here. But I will simply say that its maturation process uses a very unusual kind of barrel. If you want to know, just go to the Glenlivet website.

As soon as I had the chance to put my paws in a bottle, I figured I would soon make the test. After all, I’m not the type to shy away from an ethylic challenge. However, before, I decided to taste it without worrying about the notes, to acclimate myself. And I was very impressed. It’s a whisky with extremely well-integrated alcohol, and a fruity and spicy flavor – no spoilers here – somewhat unusual for the Glenlivet. Whatever is in that matte black bottle is excellent, and deserves to be tasted with care.

I must say that I was both proud and frustrated with my test. The website makes you choose between different notes, but at certain stages I found myself divided: I felt two notes, and I should choose only one. Again, no spoilers here. Maybe my canine smell is not tuned. Or perhaps it is just that – to show that different people have different perceptions based on their olfactory memory.

Alan laughing at the result of my test.

In Brazil, a bottle of Glenlivet Code costs on average R $ 700,00 (seven hundred reais). It’s a price comparable to another favourite, the Glenlivet 18 – which suggests that there is a good deal of well-matured whiskies in the mysterious release. This impression is also reflected in the taste.

If you can’t stand a mystery, or if you’re passionate about Glenlivet malts, try the Glenlivet Code. By the way, try the Glenlivet code even if you don’t like the distillery. After all, the idea is precisely to abandon preconceived concepts.

Or, rather, not all flexible rods are the same.

THE GLENLIVET CODE


Type: Single Malt (NAS)

Distillery: Glenlivet

Region: Speyside

ABV: 48%

Test results:

Aroma:?

Taste:?

With water: ?

Royal Salute Snow Polo Edition

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Pigeon race. If you asked me which of the English royal family’s favorite sports, I would never say pigeon racing. But according to Vogue magazine, the activity has been appreciated by british royalty since 1886, when King Leopold II of Belgium presented them with some of these (not so) gallant and swift birds. What intrigues me is that such an interest is considered a sport. After all, the only one who makes any effort is the pigeon.

But the English royal family also practices other sports, say, less sedentary. Such as Rugby, played by Princes William and Harry; and snow skiing, Charles’s favorite. But perhaps the most essentially royal game – the one that most encapsulates the sophistication of the world’s most beloved nobles – is horse polo. Again, according to Vogue, Philip, Charles, William and Harry practiced the sport. They love horse polo so much that even little George has one of those funny little mallets.

So it is only natural that a British-royalty inspired whisky brand such as Royal Salute, that shares with such royalty values ​​such as sophistication and elegance, pay tribute to the beloved royal pastime. Hence the Polo Collection – a series of commemorative limited editions from the brand, inspired by horse polo. Including the Royal Salute Snow Polo Edition, which has just arrived in Brazil.

The Royal Salute Beach Polo and Polo Edition, Expressions of the Royal Salute Polo Collection


The Royal Salute Snow Polo Edition is a type of whisky which is totally new to our market – and very rare even in Scotland. It is a blended grain scotch whisky, produced only from grain whiskies, in column stills. But quite special grain whiskies. Following the tradition of Royal Salute, the Polo Edition has 21 years of minimum maturation. It was created by Sandy Hyslop, director of blending at Chivas Regal – who, incidentally, has already been interviewed by this Bottled Dog.

Royal Salute’s Snow Polo edition is the third expression of the Polo Collection, a range of limited edition whiskies that celebrate the sophisticated equestrian game. The first was the (simply) Polo Edition, a sweet and fruity blended scotch – and the second, the smoky, maritime Beach Polo.

For Brazil, the launch of the Royal Salute 21 Snow Polo Edition could not have happened in a better place. In a horse polo match organized at Fazenda Boa Bista, in the countryside of São Paulo, with the participation of the brand ambassador and polo player, Malcolm Borwick. During the event, the whisky was served in drinks, pure and with ice, and in cocktails.

In Borwick’s words “When we started developing the third edition, we looked at the snow polo. There are two or three places where you can play polo in the snow all over the world. (…) But if we were to pick just one, it would have to be St. Moritz – they’ve been playing polo there for over thirty years. We (Royal Salute) have participated in the last five years. So we thought ‘why not do something that reflects our participation in the event and create something different?’ That’s when we came up with the idea of ​​creating a blended grain whisky with 21 years of age. ”

Malcolm toasting with Barnabas Fillion, perfumer and ambassador of Royal Salute, during the event.

“Snow polo is probably the epitome of a luxury sport. You take the horses up the mountain to play polo on a frozen lake at 2500 meters. It is an extremely ambitious thing to do. And Royal Salute is a luxury product. It is created for enthusiasts who appreciate the difference. It reflects (the sophistication) of St. Moritz in both flavor and bottle, ”continues the ambassador. Incidentally, the alcohol content of 46.5% is a reference to the latitude of St. Moritz.

Sensorially, Royal Salute 21 Snow Polo Edition is a delicate and floral whisky that brings notes of coconut, vanilla, caramel and citrus fruits. With a little water, it becomes more floral, and the coconut note intensifies. Though his heart has not been revealed, this Dog’s educated guess is that it is Strathclyde – a grain whisky distillery belonging to Pernod Ricard. Or, perhaps, the precious and silent Dumbarton.

There are several reasons to buy and try the Royal Salute Snow Polo Edition. You may be curious about the taste of excellent blended grain, so rare in the world of whisky. Or, perhaps, look for a delicate, floral and sweet yet very complex blend. Or maybe be in love with the equestrian pole. Or finally, you might just like the royal family and look for a bottle that celebrates your favorite sports. In this case, Snow Polo Edition will be your best choice, after all, the pigeon race doesn’t have the same appeal.

Oh, and if you drink, don’t ride. But if you don’t ride, try it!

ROYAL SALUTE 21 SNOW POLO EDITION


Type: Blended grain whisky

Brand: Royal Salute

Region: N / A

ABV: 46.5%

Tasting notes:

Aroma: Sweet, with honey and vanilla.

Palate: Sweet, honey, coconut, vanilla. Delicate, with a medium finish that brings vanilla, ripe fruits and coconut.

  Availability: Brazilian Stores (Price to be defined)

Arran Machrie Moor – Smoky Dog

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Having been born at a time that predated the indiscriminate use of the internet, I saw my childhood plagued by many very excruciating doubts. For example, one which puzzled me every time I had breakfast: who was the guy pictured in the Quaker outmeal box? And another question even more distressing, but of the same nature: who was the nice old man of the KFC logo?

If I could reseach such things online, it would be easy. I would know that the distinguished gentleman of fried chicken is Colonel Sanders, an important character in American history. And that that the Quaker oatmeal man is actually nobody. He was invented, pictured to represent the values ​​of honesty, integrity, purity and strength – all of which are important to the Quakers. All this knowledge would be at my fingertips, if only a quick search on the Internet was enough. But no. I had to wait for the democratization of technology to assuage my inquiring distress.

And if this is Mercury, where’s the winged helmet?

Recently I found myself once again curious about packing something. This time a whisky. The Machrie Moor, peated expression of Arran distillery, located on the island of the same name. Its label depicts a curious dog, chained to a rock that is pictured in the back of the bottle. A beautiful image, but, at first, a little disconnected. After all, what would be the relationship between a dog and a smoked whisky? But this time, thanks to the technological advance, my curiosity was quickly quenched.

Before moving on and answering the question, though, let me talk a little about whisky. Arran Machrie Moor is a NAS single malt, bottled at 46% ABV. Its aroma is clearly smoky, maritime and somewhat medicinal. The taste is smoky and citrus, with a long and smoky finish. It’s a dangerously nice whisky. If not on the leash of moderation, you could easily drink half a bottle in one night.

Machrie Moor is an annual special edition. The bottle for this post is batch no. 8, 2017. It is one of 18,300 bottles produced that year. This is important. Although the smoking level remained the same, there were certain changes in the composition of the newer batches, which were better received by the market than the older ones.

Arran is a fairly young distillery. It was founded in 1995 by Harold Currie, a former director of Chivas Regal. But despite its youth, it has a large portfolio. There are, for example, single malts with age statement, such as 10, 14 and 18 years. And also some NAS, like Lochranza and Quarter Cask. There is also a line with special finishes, in sherry, port and sauternes wine barrels. And there are, of course, the smoked ones – of which Machrie Moor is part.

Harold (source: scotchwhisky.com)

By the way, let’s talk about the name. Machrie Moor was named after a peat bog – located on the west coast of the Isle of Arran. There are some circles of Celtic stones, dating from the Bronze Age (the famous standing stones). One of these circles is called Fingal’s Cauldron Seat, where one of the stones has a small orifice in it. According to Arran folklore, it was on this perforated stone that the giant Fingal chained his mythological dog Bran while enjoying a nutritious meal in the center of the circle.

And there it is. The dog on the Machrie Moor’s label is Bran. A hunting dog belonging to the mythology of the Celtic people. According to his own myth, Bran was a dog raised from the womb of a human, and so inherited the intelligence (which is missing today) of our species. His quick thinking and hunting ability only matched his loyalty to Fingal.

So if you want a smoky and extremely drinkable citrus whiskey, you don’t have to worry for years without a definite answer. Nor wait for a new technology – or an old one – to give you the answer. You can now go offline now. Arran Machrie Moor is your whiskey.

ARRAN MACHRIE MOOR


Type: Single Malt (NAS)

Distillery: Arran

Region: Higlands (Islands)

ABV: 46%

Tasting notes:

Aroma: smoke, citrus fruits.

Palate: Discreetly fruity with pineapple. Predominantly smoked and slightly salty.

Price: BRL 351,00 at the official importer, www.lojadewhisky.com.br